In January 1901 the Victorian era came to a close. Queen Victoria’s reign had been the background to Thomas’ life, and he greatly treasured the memories of his meeting with her, and her gift to him of a gold pin at the end of her visit to Palé . Thomas gives much detail in his journal of the events surrounding the Queen’s passing and of her funeral. This is probably copied from a newspaper, perhaps The Times, as was his habit regarding significant national events.
He sums up his assessment of the reign that has passed and a cautious optimism for the future: Queen Victoria has been the best sovreign ever reigned in England, and probably in the world. Her memory will be handed down to prosperity for goodness, virtue, kindness, and humility. Since she began to reign, great strides have been making everything good for the nation, perfect freedom to her people, railways, telegraph, wonderful engineering works, free trade, electricity, Arts and sciences, literature, Commerce and great expansion of the Empire. Religious freedom and education are now everyone’s inheritance.
Friday the 25th . The Prince of Wales was yesterday declared king as Edward VII. I feel sure he will follow, to the best of his ability, in the footsteps of his good and noble mother.
Crowds line the route of Queen Victoria’s funeral procession. Public domain
The Queen’s death was on everyone’s mind, and Thomas was happy to recount his own experience with her: Tuesday the 5th February. Miss Williams, a friend of Lady Robertson, wished to see my fossils and eggs. She was a very amiable young lady and took great interest in the collections. She chatted about the visit of the Queen and the interest she took in the fossils. I told her some of what the Queen had said about the things which delighted her very much.
Much was changing in the world around him, and the increasing independence of his children changed the aspect of his fatherly duties. His eldest son by his late second wife Frances was studying at Aberystwyth, eldest daughter Francie had become the principle keeper of house and family cook. Carrie (16) Millie (14) and Alfie (11) were relatively self sufficient.
Some of the children accompanied Thomas on his walks, it appears that they were free to choose whether to join, although Francie was perhaps too occupied with household duties to take part regularly. On September 10th Henry, still home for the holidays from Aberystwyth and Millie joined Thomas on what turned out to be a very long expedition to the waterfall Pistyll Rhaiadr. Setting out at 8.40 am, the first part of the day became foggy and damp, and they gave up the attempt once reaching the top of the Bala – Llangynog pass. However, after eating their lunch, the weather changed for the better.
Path below Craig Rhiwarth, Richard Park, via Geograph.
They continued towards a recently closed lead mine, found rock specimens and continued to the nearby summit of Craig Rhiwarth where they examined the remains of an ancient ‘British camp’ finding circular hut foundations etc. this time the day was beautifully fine, so they decided to make a dash the 3 miles to the waterfall as Millie had not seen it. They commenced a ‘toilsome climb’ over the hill getting to the falls at 3.47 and leaving at 4.37. Thomas gives much description of the view from the top of the falls, the surrounding botany and geology and includes a field sketch.
Indefatigable, they commenced the lengthy walk homewards, coming across a stone circle and avenue of stones which Thomas measured and sketched. This is an extensive description of a very long and arduous walk of at least 25 miles with two of his children. He comments that he needed to rest several times on the homeward journey. Aged 59, there are hints that his enormous energy is diminishing and he may be expecting too much of himself. Nevertheless, his enjoyment of walking in his beloved landscape in the company of his children is undiminished. So too is his interest in geology, Botany, ancient history and his love of the Welsh landscape.
The family in 1895, Francie (Frances Harriet) top right
Every member of the Ruddy family was deeply affected by the tragic death of wife and mother Frances Harriett at the age of 52, but for eldest daughter Francie it had a huge impact. Along with many other girls of her age whose mothers had died, the expectation was that she would take on the motherly role. she was 14, and at this age girls from less well off families would enter service as a maid, so there would have been no doubt that she could manage.
Francie had a number of advantages: the family had Mary, one of a succession of live-in general maids who had been with the family since Thomas’s appointment as Head Gardener. Francie was at the Girls’ school in Bala, doing very well, and in receipt of a scholarship. Thomas enabled her to continue in education a further year, although her spare time seems have been much taken up with domestic duties. In addition, though not mentioned in the journal, there would have been an oversight for the family’s welfare from the Robertson family and staff at Palé Hall.
It wasn’t always plain sailing for young Francie: Monday the 12th [June 1899]. Francie cut her finger rather badly with the breadknife.
in 1899 it is noticeable that Francie was rarely walking with the family, presumably being much occupied with both school work and extra housekeeping duties. Mary, the maid, was sometimes included in walks when Francie was also present. This inclusion of Mary in the family’s activities was initially convenient, but was to lead to trouble later. There was fun with a bicycle in July: Saturday the 29th [July]. Mary and the girls have been practising with a bicycle on hire all week.Monday the 31st Francie went with Mary in the evening to Bala to deliver up the hired bicycle. It was warm but they rode turn about and walked the difficult places. They came back by train.
In August, Thomas, aware that Francie had missed out on a treat enjoyed by her siblings, took her out with him for the day: Wednesday the 16th [August]. I had to go to Porthmadog to be one of the judges at the flower show there. As a Francie had not been to Rhyl, I took home with me to go this circular tour. I got her to put on a gold watch and chain (Her grandmother’s) for the first time.
The journey took them on the narrow gauge railway from Blaenau Ffestioniog to Porthmadog, which Thomas calls the ‘Toy Railway’: From Blaenau we went by the Toy Railway to Porthmadog. This miniature railway is 13 ¼ miles in length and runs uphill from Porthmadog to Blaenau 700 feet above sea level. The guage is but 1 ft 11 ¼ inches with Little engines and carriages overhanging the rails. The curves are numerous and sharp, and the gradients are from one in 68 to 1 in 92. It is a single line with no slopes in the cuttings of rock, and there is not much more width than is required for the carriages. There is the one tunnel through Moel Dduallt of 73 yards, and another of 60 yards. The views all the way are very beautiful as the line is so elevated that it overlooks the vale of Maentwrog all the way. The river Dwryd winds along the valley to the sea at Traeth Bach. The sides of the valley are beautifully wooded with rocky heights here and there.
Steam train at Ddallt station on the Heritage Railway in 2018
Thomas and Francie enjoyed their day and arrived home to find Mary’s sister Annie there with her: We had a very pleasant journey home and found Mary had her sister Annie here to keep her company. We very much enjoyed our outing.
Then, suddenly, it all goes wrong: Wednesday the 23rd [August]. I had to send Mary away for she has been idling most of her time for about two months. She is continually idling and gossiping out of doors with the next-door people and the passers-by. I have warned her many times but she only laughed at me and became insolent. She had an idea that I could not do without her, but now when I have Francie at home she has made a great mistake. We were sorry for her, for we have been very kind to her in many ways, but she does not seem to have any gratitude in her.
There is a sadness that Francie is now left to manage entirely on her own, but Thomas continues to give her breaks from household duties: Thursday the 24th [August]. Sir Henry wished me to go to Shrewsbury flower show. I took Francie with me. It was very warm all the way there, and the heat was very great at the show. The plants, fruit, flowers and vegetables were very good, that the heat in the tents was unbearable, and every place outside and in was crowded with people. We had a good tea there, but the heat made us very thirsty. We saw a balloon go up with two men in it. We saw performing dogs, monkeys, and wonderful bicycling by the Selbini troupe, saw the wonderful Arab group of 12 performers tumbling in a wonderful manner and balancing themselves one above another as pillars, walls, etc.
Francie continued to learn to keep house, usually with appreciation from Thomas. So on Christmas Day 1899: The children and myself had a comfortable dinner. Francie cooked our goose and plum pudding to perfection. Friends sent books, cakes, sweets, cards and a silk handkerchief.
Francie’s early introduction to housekeeping and the care of her four siblings did not seem to put her off a caring lifestyle. As a grown woman she did not marry, but pursued a career in caring for orphaned and disadvantaged children in various charitable institutions.
Frances Harriet in later life, courtesy of family member R.W.
Following the devastating loss of his wife Frances Harriett in August 1898, Thomas and his five children at home continued to carry on with their lives together. Reading between the lines of the 1899 section of the journal, we see Thomas caring sympathetically for each of the children, and continuing his round of work at Palé which he doesn’t mention specifically, his interest in geology and natural history, and wide relationships friends, often fellow geologists, and family.
January brought Thomas an unexpected gift from a fellow antiquities collector: I had a box of interesting things from my friend Mr Barr who is travelling in America. He sent the box to his sons in London and they sent it on to me. The box contained some minerals of lead, gold, copper, blende and iron pyrites. Also 13 Indian arrowheads in flint, quartz and felstone and obsidian; a most interesting the lot. There was a stone and needle, and Aztec clay figure from a sepulchral mound at Atzcapolazalca, Mexico. It is supposed to be from 500 to 1000 years old. There was also a beautiful rock crystal, a good garnet from California and a little ruby from Alaska.
In March a business trip for trees reunited Thomas with a geologist friend, the Nurseryman and with the Curator of the Grosvenor Museum. I went to Dicksons, Chester for trees. I saw Sir Henry at the station, Chester. I looked over the hot houses and then got the trees I required. Mr Trevor Dickson got a trap to take me to the shop in town. Mr George Dickson was delighted to see me and have a chat. I have not seen him since I went to receive the Kingsley medal in 1889. After I got some tools and a bit of lunch, I went to see the Grosvenor Museum. I met Mr Newstead and the curator there who was much pleased to see me. I looked over the antiquities specially with him. He gave me two of the small Roman coins found at Maesmor.
The children were successful academically. Henry, the eldest of the second family, was studying at Aberystwyth College. His mother had lived long enough to know of his success. In September Henry and his second Sister Caroline (Carrie) received good news: We had a circular from Aberystwyth to say Henry gained a scholarship of £10 at the University College. We were highly pleased. In the evening we heard Carrie gained one at the County School, Bala. The £10 pounds will pay Henry’s fees at college of the year. Carrie will have her tuition free for the year or more at Bala. It was curious we should hear of both scholarships the same day. And curious to say Henry, Francie and Carrie are the only scholars who have gained scholarships to Bala schools from this parish.
As was seen from earlier in the journal, Thomas’ relationship with Thomas Alexander, his eldest son from his first marriage was complex following Thomas junior’s marriage, but his son regularly sent gifts to his father from Monserrat where he was working with the Lime Juice Company: Friday the 10th. We had a box from Monserrat, per King Arthur ship to Liverpool. It contained two bottles of tamarind syrup for drinks, oranges, limes, one shaddock orange, arrowroot and the complete jaws and the fin of of a shark. The shark’s teeth are ivory white 5 to 6 rows all round; that one row lying flat; the edges are sharp and serrated. The fin (pectoral) is strong and ribbed, 17 inches in length by 12 inches and of the triangular shape. Tom sent off the box from Monserrat on the 19th of last month.
William, Thomas Alexander’s younger brother, visited regularly from his work as a clerk in the iron and coal company owned by the Robertson family in Wrexham.
Local community events provided opportunities for enjoyment: Thursday the 27th June. Mary, Henry and Carrie, Milly and Alfie went to Rhyl with the church excursion. Francie could not go, because she had to go to school to wind up her term at Bala. It was a very fine day there, the children enjoyed themselves. I stayed at home. They left here at 7:15 and got back by 9.30, the time fixed for going and returning. Francie finishes at Bala County school today. Saturday the 29th. Mary and the girls have been practising with a bicycle on hire all week. It has been very exciting. They go fairly well, and so does Henry, that they only go on gentle slopes and on levels. Henry goes uphill. They finish with it on Monday.
Thomas continued to be invited to use his skills: Thursday the 10th July I left here by the 9.30 train for Llangollen to act as judge at the flower show there. It was very pleasant travelling. On arriving there I went straight to the cricket ground where the show was to be. Mrs Sampson Smith the secretary met me and introduced me to my fellow judge, Mr Roberts Jr of Halston near Whittington, Shropshire. We soon set to work and got done about 12.30. It was a fairly good show, and we took much care, and we were afterwards told that we gave great satisfaction. We were given a good dinner at the Bridge Hotel.
We afterwards visited the show ground to see of bicycle parade. Eight ladies dressed in white, for with the yellow sashes and four with green sashes went through wonderful evolutions on the tennis ground near tents. The performance was perfect and the ladies were much applauded. They were Llangollen ladies. One of them told me when we were having tea in the tea tents that they were practising for the last fortnight.
In August 1898, the Ruddy family found themselves very suddenly bereaved by the death of their mother at the age of 52. Henry, the eldest was 15, Frances 14, Caroline 12, Amelia 10 and Alfred 8. At the time, such a bereaved family would have been relatively commonplace. The photograph above was taken two years earlier.
Despite the devastating effect of such a loss, the family had the advantage of being long established in the village, and held in high esteem amongst all at Palé Hall, staff and Robertson family alike. Practical support and assistance would have been in plentiful supply. As will be seen in the journal, such an event placed a great deal of responsibility on the shoulders of the eldest daughter, Frances, ‘ Francie’, who took on much of the general administration of the house, although the family had the advantage of always having a general maid throughout their time at Palé.
After an initial outpouring of grief, Thomas remains stoical, in true Victorian fashion. My dear wife was a most devoted mother to her children and a wife who could scarcely be equalled in her sphere of life. She is well and truthfully described in Proverbs, chapter 31, verses 27 and 28. [1st August, 1898, the day of Harriet’s death]
Thomas’ response to his bereavement was in general to continue the routines of his life as before. He faithfully records the weather statistics for August as he always did. His wide circle of friendship gave him commiserations and support both in person and by letter for which he seems deeply grateful.
By Friday 26th Thomas felt able to take the children to Barmouth for the day, even taking the children’s friend Ada Patton along with them. His journal shows him to have become a deeply responsible and caring father to the five children of his second marriage. He details walks with them in various combinations throughout the rest of his journals, suggesting that they were free to choose whether to join in. Walks with Thomas were always educational as he pointed out plants, flowers bird and animal life.
He felt able to continue public duties as well; on Tuesday 30th he went to judge the flower and vegetable show at Glanllyn as usual, taking Henry with him. After judging and lunch, he took Henry for an extensive ramble including to the Roman fort of Caer Gai. He gives an extensive report of their expedition.
Thomas and Henry travelled by train to the Glanllyn Flag Halt, where they had a launch waiting to take them to the House, then a hunting lodge, now a field centre. After lunch they walked to Caer Gai.
There is no mention of the two elder sons of Thomas’ first marriage at this point. At this distance it is difficult to judge the complexity of family relationships, particularly using a journal which is by its nature a selective document reflecting the immediate concerns of an individual.
Few photographs exist of Frances Harriet Ruddy, neé Williams. This is apparently taken when she was a young woman.
As mentioned in my previous post, Thomas had hardly ever, perhaps never been away overnight from his family since his marriage to Frances Harriet. The events that were to unfold on his return were therefore particularly shocking.
I got home here to find poor Frances looking quite ill with what we thought was severe bilious attack. She was very sorry to be ill on my arrival home, for she would have liked to hear all about my visit if well enough.
Tuesday the 26th. I got the doctor (Mr Williams) to come and see Frances. He said she had a chill and inflammation, so she had better keep to bed for a day or two, and that she would be alright in a few days.
Wednesday the 27th. Francis fairly well. I at Pen. [Home of Mr Pamplin, Frances’uncle] Frances weak on Thursday.
Friday. Henry had his report to say he had passed in the first division the Matriculation Exam of the University of Wales. His mother was much pleased and complimented him. Willie came in the evening for his holidays; he had a week, most of which he spent in the Isle of Man.
Saturday the 30th. Francis apparently better. Dr here every day at my wish, because it is more satisfactory.
The 31st. Dear Frances pretty well until the evening when she became delirious. She had great thirst the previous night; I gave her milk and soda water frequently, and champagne occasionally.
Monday, August 1. Dear Frances delirious all night, and dreadfully exhausted in the morning. When the doctor came he discovered that there was an internal rupture of the stomach; this was terribly sad news for me, for he held out no hope of recovery. It was a fearful shock to all of us, and God took her from us at a 12:45 o’clock midday. She was quite unconscious, and died with the bright smile on her face. Mrs Cleveley the Coachman’s wife and Mrs Davies who washes for us were with her all the morning until she died. We were all suddenly plunged in deep sorrow, a sorrow which never can be forgotten. My dear wife was a most devoted mother to her children and a wife who could scarcely be equalled in her sphere of life. She is well and truthfully described in Proverbs, chapter 31 , verses 27 and 28.
Frances sang as part of her Uncle William Pamplin’s choir ‘Sacred Melodies’. She is probably standing extreme right (unconfirmed)
Willie returned to his work in the evening. Mrs Cleveley kindly made room for the two boys, Henry and Alfred to sleep at her house, and I slept or tried to sleep in their room. We had a sad house.
So, with terrible suddenness, Thomas became a widower for a second time, leaving the children of their marriage: Henry, 16, Frances Harriet (Francie) 14, Caroline Elizabeth (Carrie) 13, Amelia Agnes (Millie) 11 and Alfred Williams (Alfie) 8.
Bridge at Bettws y Coed by Ray Jones (Creative Commons)
As the 1890’s continued, there is an increasing reference in Thomas’ journal to days out, some organised by the family, others part of an organised group. Transport was made easily available and destinations, such as the attractive village of Bettws y Coed, still magnet for modern day tourists, geared up to receive visitors and receive their money. In August 1895, Frances Harriet’s brother William Williams and his wife were visiting the Ruddy family, and they set out for a day’s enjoyment.
Wednesday the 28th. We were all up early to get ready to go to Bettws-y-Coed with Mr and Mrs W. We left here by the 9.10 train, and had a wagonette and pair of horses waiting for us at Bala station. We left the station at 9.40 and got to Bettws -y-Coed at 12.30. We follow the road to Ffestiniog until we got to Frongoch, here we turned to the right by the side of the stream called Monachdwr and passed the vicarage. We passed a few houses and the chapel at Glanrafrn in Cumtir Mynach. After passing Pont Monachdwr, we saw the clay works of Mr Price at Rhiwlas.
We got into Denbighshire when we crossed a small brook which skirts the road for a short distance and then goes towards Llangwm. We got onto the Holyhead Road at Pont Arddwyfaen, about a couple of miles south of Cerrig-y-Druidion. It is a dreary and an interesting road from Frongoch to the Holyhead road.
A short halt was made at the roadside hotel called the Saracen’s Head near Cerrig-y-Druidion. (Below – now houses?)
Thomas continues with a blow by blow commentary on the journey. It seems their route was already well favoured by tourists.
Pentre Voelas Hotel, image by Nigel Gallaghan under Creative Commons.
Pentre Voelas Hotel seems to be a comfortable place; it is in a hollow sheltered by trees and has nice gardens. There were many people about it– tourists and bicyclists.
The scenery is very pleasing all the way to Betws y Coed; the Conway runs in a continual torrent the walls of rock; it makes a short detour westward where it receives the river Machno, and shortly afterwards the united streams for over a rocky slope called the Conway Falls. The river now runs in a deep dingle with the rocky slopes on each side, and the whole is well clothed with trees. The road is high above the river on the rocky slope, the rock is composed of the usual felstone ash rock, so common in North Wales.
Afon Conwy by John Firth Creative Commons
We got to the Waterloo Hotel, which is a short distance from the bridge, and about a quarter of a mile from the station and church at 12:30 o’clock. We returned over the Waterloo Bridge, which is an iron structure of one span, built in the year 1815. It carries the Holyhead Road over the Conway. It is very beautiful here; the views up and down the river being very pleasing. There is a broad meadow in front of the hotel on the north side of the river, and rugged rocky heights rise up from the river on either side; the whole covered with trees. We followed of the road leading to Ffestiniog along the side of the river to the stone bridge called the Beaver Pool Bridge, which we crossed, and finding a quiet rocky ledge near the end of it, we sat there under a projecting rock and had our luncheon.
The Fairy Glen Hotel – still a popular tourist destination. Image Dot Potter via Geograph, Creative Commons
We next returned and recrossed the Stone bridge and entered by a turnstile and old road leading to the Fairy Glen, at quarter of a mile distant. We paid 2d each, half price for the children to see the Glen. The Fairy Glen is a wild bit of river scenery where the Conway runs in a torrent between upright walls of rock for a short distance and then widens into a raging pool hemmed in by rock on either side, and then it rushes onward between rough ledges and masses of rock to join the Lledr. There is a rough pathway to the river where there is a view up the gorge. There were many people there at the time, and indeed the roads were swarming with people wherever we went between Conway Falls and Swallow Falls, everywhere while we were at Bettws, some on coaches, and many as we were, walking.
Image by Eirian Evans via Geograph, Creative Commons
We next walked back, re-crossed the Waterloo Bridge and went straight to the railway station of the London and North Western. Here we got a coach to the Swallow Falls. It was a very pleasant drive; the village consists of the hotels and lodging houses, the houses being built around the base of the rugged rocky slopes. We passed the end of the bridge over the Llungwy, called Pont y Pair where there is a pretty view up the river, which runs over a rocky bed with a rocky wall on one side. The falls are close to the road where we entered by a little gate without payment. We had to go down by rough steps to the riverbed to see the Falls and a rough dangerous place it is, but it is carefully and strongly fenced on one side where there was a much danger. There are two falls each 20 feet by about 30 feet wide.
Swallow Falls, upper fall. Image by Christine Matthews, via Geograph, Creative Commons
The lower fall also glides down the rocks over a smooth surface; each fall ends in a deep boiling pool; the lower fall issues from the pool at the bottom of the first one. From the lower pool the waters run in a torrent over a wide rocky bed with walls of rock on either side, and the rocks rise perpendicularly over the falls on the north side to a great height, and there are the remains of an old tower on the top of the precipice. The Swallow Falls are well worth seeing, and after the rains as we saw them, they were wild and foaming. The river scenery all the way from the falls to Pont y Pain is pleasing; it is beautifully wooded, being closed with young plantations of Larch, self sown and planted oaks, and the rocks rise into rounded masses high above the river of the north side.
On our return to the Village, we had a hurried tea, and started for home at 5.10. We got to Pentre Voelas at 6, Cerrig y Druidion at 6:30, and Bala at 8:15, just as the train got into the station. The road was steeper on the return than when going, but the horses were good, and the driver was steady and careful.
It is interesting to see that visitor attractions still very popular today were attracting large crowds in the 1890s. Although visitors now pay to view the Swallow Falls, the 2 pence per person to view the Fairy Glen in 1895 seems steeper than today’s price!
I have now been transcribing and researching Thomas’ journals for more than 15 years. It has been possible to keep going because of the sheer variety and interest that his jottings present. I usually concentrate these posts on a single issue, but perhaps it is time to record some edited extracts from a six month period to demonstrate the range of interests and events he chose to record.
NEWSPAPER COLUMNISTFriday, March 1. Mr Woodall very kindly sent me gratis a volume of Bye-Gones for the years 1893–4. He has now sent me three volumes, representing six years. All my own contributions to the Oswestry Advertiser are reprinted in Bye-Gones. I am very pleased to have the copies.
WEATHER REPORTERMarch Wednesday the sixth. The ice still unbroken on Bala Lake and the reservoir. The snow is now confined to hollows, sides of roads and fences where it is of great depth in many places.Saturday the 16th. We walked to Bodwenni Gate. It was very pleasant, very clear road almost all the way and the birds singing. Great snow wreaths in many places.
FATHER Palm Sunday (the seventh) Henry, Carrie and little Alfred with me over Palé hill. It was fine and sunny. Alfred walked well and was pleased to go. Saw the Ring Ouzel. Good Friday. The whole family of us over Palé hill, and very enjoyable it was. Great snow wreaths on the hills, and a yard deep at the little farm of Bwlchysafen at an altitude of 1054 feet.
GEOLOGIST On Wednesday the 17th. I had a visit from Mr Lake of Cambridge University and his friend Mr Groom from Herefordshire. They had luncheon and tea with us and spent most of the time inspecting my fossils. Both are keen geologists and we had a pleasant time together. They enjoyed the visit and left by the 4.6 train.
Fossil material collected by Thomas from the collection in the Sedgwick Museum, Cambridge.
FRIEND Thomas had befriended Thomas Mellard Reade as a fellow geologist, (see previous post) but in bereavement Reade chose to stay near to his friend Ruddy. Monday the 29th Frances and I met my friend Mr. Mellard Reade and his stepdaughter, Miss Taylor at the station. They came to spend a week at the Derfel to recruit their health, because Mrs Reade died the previous week. They were pleased to see us and we walked with them as far as the village. Wednesday, 1 May. I went over Palé hill with Mr Reade. We had an interesting ramble. Thursday the second. Mr Reade, Miss Taylor and I went to Sarnau, then on to Caeranucha and home by Bethel lane. It was very fine all the way. Saturday the 4th. I went to Sirior with Mr Reade. We examined some rather interesting glacial deposits and boulders. I had tea him at the Derfel where he lodges. Monday the 6th. Mr Reade and Miss Taylor returned home. They had very fine weather and much enjoyed their visit.
EMPLOYEEMonday the sixth [May]. Lady Robertson was safely delivered of her fourth daughter at 7:30 am. Both going on well.
Monday the 20th. Sir Henry and Col Burton [ Sir Henry’s brother in law] wished to see my collection of birds’ eggs. Col Burton knows much about them. He said my collection is very good and of much interest.
The Staircase Hall, Palé
NEIGHBOUR. Saturday the 25th. I went after tea as far as Garnedd to see the old farmer. I found him in a very weak state and not likely to live long. He was very pleased to see me, and I was very sorry to see him in such a weak state. We have been dealing in potatoes now for over 20 years.
LOCAL EVENTSTuesday the 28th Frances and I at Corwen where we spent most of the day after sale of furniture at Colomendy where the late Dowager Mrs Price of Rhiwlas lived for over 20 years. The articles were rather ancient, for the old lady was very saving body. Colomendy is a curious old place and house and gardens are much out of repair. It was very warm. I bid for a carpet and got it, and finished with that. Mr Owen of the White Lion Hotel kindly left it at Bryntirion here for me. We came home by the last train.
HUSBAND From their Geologically themed honeymoon onwards Frances Harriet seems to have been content to share her husband’s hobbies. Saturday the eighth. Frances and I went to Bala in the afternoon. We went along the side of the lake to Fachdeiliog boathouse. I searched for a sedge warbler’s nest there, but only found an empty whitethroat’s. I picked up two or three flint flakes by the lake on my return.
GUIDE. Thomas was always willing to act as guide to anyone who sought his instruction. Wednesday the 12th The Revd James Gracie came here on his bicycle from Bala College in the afternoon. I took him around the gardens, and after tea I guided him onto the top of Palé hill. The mountains were very clear, so I was able to show him Snowdon, Moelwyn, etc. I also showed him Moel Fammau. He was much pleased with the views, for he never saw Snowdon before. After supper he returned on his bicycle at 9 o’clock.
EXPERT Thomas was widely consulted as a horticultural expert. Thursday the 13th. I went by request to Bala College to see the grounds and give advice about the trees and shrubs. Principal Edwards, Prof Williams, and Mr Gracie went around with me. The Principal and Mr Williams were very nice and chatty all the time. Mr. Gracie came to the station to see me off.
PARENT Francis took the children in the evening to Bala to be photographed in a group.
CHESTER SOCIETY FOR NATURAL SCIENCEWednesday the 26th. Frances and Henry went to Arenig station to see Mrs Evans Jones. I was to have gone too, to act as one of the leaders to the members of the Chester Society of Natural Science, but as the excavation was a failure, I stayed at home. It was hot and hazy all day with thunder far away; not a good day for top of Arenig.
ORNITHOLOGISTSaturday the 29th.[June] Henry and I went to see the young cuckoo for the last time; it was almost ready to fly. Sunday the 30th. Henry and I along the railway as far as Garth Goch. We found the nest of a shrike with three eggs and a whinchats with five eggs, all fresh.
Sunday the seventh. We all went in the evening to see the swans and their cygnet on the river near Dolygadfa. The cygnet is much grown. It got onto its mother’s back for a time. We came home by the village.
POLITICAL COMMENTATOR. The General Election is now over, and the result has been a surprise to all concerned. The Conservatives have made a clean sweep of the Liberals, for they got into power with a majority of 152. There has not been such an election for many years. Many of the Liberal leaders have been defeated; even Sir W Harcourt, Mr Morley, Mr Shaw Lefevre, etc. The Welsh Radicals are quite dejected over it. They thought to disestablish the Church in Wales, but now it seems afar.
GEOLOGICAL RESEARCH. Monday the fifth. Bank holiday. My old friend Mr A.C.Nicholson of Oswestry and his brother paid us visit. We had them to luncheon and tea etc. I have been for some time arranging and naming parcels of fossil material from Gloppa, Old Oswestry and Sweeny for him and also for him and Mr. Cobbold of Church Stretton. The Church Stretton material consists of fossil Beds 1 to 2 inches each in thickness which have been found in an igneous rock; this igneous rock has been for a time passed off as Precambrian by two or three geologists. I find the fossils to belong to the base of the Caradoc series and the igneous rock to be a vassicular ash. I have named the fossils and made a report of the whole.
The Nicholsons and I spent most of our time in the fruit room packing the specimens to take home and examining and discussing my fossils. We spent a very interesting afternoon together. The fossils from Sweeny near Oswestry are from Boulder Clay; the fossils being of Llandeilo age. They occur in a black shale, rather soft and I found the Lingulella lepis common in it. This fossil has not been found south of the Berwyns, so that it is of much interest. My friends left by the 8.30
A page from Thomas’ Commonplace book – from the handwriting, written in older age.
Thomas kept precise and unfailing records of the weather, but in February 1895 there was much to report. His temperature records are, of course in Fahrenheit.
Friday the 22nd some severe frost during the week–20° on the 18th, 11° on the 19th, 13° on the 20th, 15° on the 21st, 19 ½° on this the 22nd. Frances, the children and myself have had colds for three weeks; they have left us now. We have not been at church for several Sundays.
Saturday the 23rd. Frances, Francie, Carrie, Millie, and myself went to Bala by the 3.16 train to see the lake frozen over. It was a strange sight to see such an extent of water frozen over– say between three and 4 miles in length, and three quarters of a mile in width. We stood for a few minutes on the bank at the North East end of it to view the scene. There were many people on it some skating, some walking about, and a large party playing at hockey on skates. The snow covered the slopes of the surrounding hills, which made it look very wintry. But at the time it was rather pleasant, for there was a slight thaw. The scene reminded one of a fair or suchlike. It was so very strange to see the smooth expanse of level ground where I have often seen wild waves rolling along before the winds. We met Henry on the ice and we all walked about for about an hour. The little ones were sliding part of the time. The ice seems to be very solid and quite strong enough for any ordinary weight. I found a hole broken through it in one place and the ice was about 4 inches in thickness. It averages six or 9 inches over most of it. It is a rough ice, much spotted with white specks and has huge cracks all over it. There were fewer people there today than usual owing to it being market day at Bala. I met several people I knew such as Mr Evans, Master of the Grammar School, Mr. Gracie, Mr Owen of the White Lion Hotel etc. and Mr Owen told me he drove over the lower end of the lake on Thursday in his dogcart and a tandem. He zigzagged it afterwards towards Eryl Aran and back again to the lower end. He, the tandem and people were photographed on the ice.
This is quite extraordinary as there had been a fatality on the frozen lake on February 19th, reported in at least one newspaper. From the Montgomeryshire Express, Tuesday 19th February 1895:
Nevertheless, the local population, including the Ruddy Family, seemed undaunted: Several people have skated and walked all the way to the upper end of the lake, and bicycles are frequently running over the ice. There was much of the lake frozen over in January 1881, and in the winter of 18 60–61 too, that there has not been such ice on it as it presents since the winter of 1854–55. That was the time of the Crimean war. I am told by Mr Peter Jones of Bryntirion that he was taken across the lake that Winter from near Llangower to Bala. There was a very deep snow that winter and it covered the ground for weeks.
There is not much ice on the Dee, but the river Tryweryn was frozen over from near Rhiwlas to the junction.
We were all very pleased to be on the ice for we may never see such a scene again. We were about three quarters of a mile from the east shore of it. I never saw such an extent of ice before; and Frances has hardly ever been on any frozen water.
Henry went right across it twice and back on Wednesday afternoon.
Despite Thomas’ report that photographs were taken, I have been unable to find one online. Instead I give you one of my favourite pictures!
Reverend Robert Walker Skating on Duddingston Lock by Sir Henry Raeburn (about 1784)
Raeburn painted his Skating Minister 100 years before the Bala skaters had fun on the ice.
The children circa 1895: top l-r Millie (Amelia), Henry, Francie (Frances) bottom l-r Carrie (Caroline) Alfie (Alfred)
In 1894 the five children of Thomas and Frances were aged between 12 and 4 years. Thomas, sometimes joined by Frances, enjoyed taking them walking, choosing the expeditions according to the abilities of the children. Each walk gave him opportunity to teach them about the sights and sounds of the countryside. His journal entries suggest that in some of the walks the children were able to decide for themselves whether to join in the walks, as varying numbers and combinations join different expeditions. Over the mid and late 1890s, Henry, the eldest, seems to have been Thomas’ most constant companion, followed by Millie (Amelia). The two elder girls, Francie (Frances) and Carrie (Caroline) were less likely to join in, perhaps being expected to help in household tasks. At this point Henry was 12, Francie 10, Carrie 9, Millie 7 and Alfred 4.
July 21st 1894, Henry and his father made a lengthy expedition too strenuous for the younger siblings. Henry and I went by train to Llandrillo and from there we walked to the top of Cader Fronwen. [Cadair Bronwen on OS maps] We went over the village bridge, then followed a lane until we got to nice upland pastures, across which we walked until we got to the circle upright stones on Moel ty Ucha.
We next got to a splendid spring of pure water on the top of the ridge where the road turns towards Clochnant at the base of Cadair Fronwen (now Cader Bronwen). [SJ077 346]. The well has rough slates replaced as a square and is well known from time immemorial as ‘ffynon Maen Milgi” the Greyhound’s stone well. Some are inclined to think that it is a Roman well from the name Greyhound because it is believed the Romans brought this dog from Italy. We left the road at the well and took to the mountainside until we got to the top of Cader [294] Fronwen by 3.35. We found the cloudberry or Berwyn raspberry on the way up, but there were neither flowers nor fruit. It had evidently been injured by the frost in May.
On the ridge near the upright stone there is a mound of earth, mostly peaty with a few stones in it. It is certainly artificial and marks a sepuchral place. From here we went up a steep slope to the top of Craig Berwyn. On top we found many plants of the raspberry in boggy ground. On our return we followed the same road all the way to Llandrillo where we got to the station a few minutes before train time. Observed the kestrel on the very top, but interesting birds were scarce. We were highly pleased with our visit to the mountain, and were in good condition on our return home.
Not all family expeditions were so extensive. Family members walked ‘after tea’ on many days, observing rocks, flowers and trees and birds and their nests. Each month Thomas would faithfully record details of the weather; his reports were published in the Oswestry Advertiser.
Family walks continued throughout the 1890’s joined by elder step brother Willie when he came home from his work in Wrexham. The frequency of his notes of these walks in the journals of these years (journals 4 and 5) show Thomas’ delight in sharing his knowledge and enthusiasm with his children.
By the spring of 1892 Thomas was the father of eight children; by his first marriage Tom (23) William (20) Mary Emily (19) all at work and living away from home; by his second marriage Henry (10) Frances H ‘Francie’ (8) Caroline E ‘Carrie’ (7) Amelia A ‘Millie’ (5) and Alfred (2).
A significant new element in the journal is the number and frequency of walks recorded, which match the diminution of the expeditions with various natural history societies by Thomas alone. On almost all, Thomas records finding plants, birds, trees and other natural phenomena. It must have been a pleasant and instructive pastime for the children to have such a rich source of tutoring in natural history.
A charming aspect of these recorded walks is that they are undertaken by different combinations of companions. Sometimes Thomas walks just with his wife, occasionally the whole younger family is involved, often Thomas walks with just one of his young children and when the older siblings come home, they are involved as well. This suggests that the children were allowed to choose whether to go on the expeditions, concentrated as they are at the weekends, rather than being made to participate. The opportunity to do this, leaving some young children at home, was possible as the Ruddy family always had a live in general servant. Here is a selection from 1892-3
April 1892
Sunday the 10th Henry and I went along the railway to rock opposite Crogen. (Tanycraig) and returned home by Caepant. We had a pleasant walk. Thursday the 14th Tom came home for his holidays. Little ones much excited over his coming. Good Friday. Tom and I went for a ramble round Fronheulog in the evening.
May 1892
Sunday, May 1st Francis and I took the children to about half a mile beyond Brynmelyn. It was very pleasant. Saturday the 7th Carrie and I had a ramble over Palé Hill, and went as far as Brynselwrn Ffrith. Sunday the 8th Francie and I went along the railway to Tanygraig rock. We flushed corncrake twice on the way, and found a kestrel’s nest with four eggs, and a wood pigeon’s nest on the ground on a ledge of rock under the shelter of the tree root. It was built in the usual way. We saw a water hen’s nest with five eggs and a newly hatched chicken in the nest. Francie very pleased to see the little bird. I observed the tree pipit for the first time. We returned home by the village. Francie much pleased with her walk.
July 1892
Saturday the 23rd Frances and I took Francie and Carrie by the 4 o’clock train to Llandrillo. On our arrival there, we walked along the railway to a plantation about 2 miles away. I picked up the Medicago luplulina on the way, and so a few other things of interest. On getting to the plantation, which is on the side of the line, Francis and little ones rested until I went to examine two or three specimens of the noble Silver Fir, which Sir Henry wished me to examine. From the plantation we went up and narrow lane to the road, and got out about halfway between Plasynfardre and Hendor bridge. We had a pleasant walk to the village and from there to the station. We met Mr and Mrs Vernon on our way to the station. We had a pleasant ramble, and the girls were pleased to go.
September 1892
Sunday the fourth. Tom, Francie, Carrie Millie, and I went as far as Glandwynant, and then up through the wood to Bwlch Hannerob, and home by the path passing the old quarry. It was a pleasant little ramble.
Feb 1893
Saturday the 11th Francis and I went after tea to near Ty Tanygraig at the western outlet of the tunnel. We much enjoyed the walk, and it was a change to be able to get a walk. Sunday the 19th. Francie and I went after tea as far as Tydyninco; we had to return home as it came on to rain rather heavily.
March 1893
Sunday the 19th Carrie and I went along the Bala road after tea to Bodwenni and returned by Bodwenni pillar and Earlswood, getting down by Fronheulog. We had a pleasant ramble. We could see the tops of Aran and Arenig covered with great stripes of snow.
Thomas and Carrie’s walk
Sunday the 26th [March] after tea we took the children along with the Bala Road as far as the little roadside pool beyond Bodweni. On arriving there we crossed a little meadow to the riverside where the children ran about for a short time, much to their delight. Two herons flew over us, on screaming several times. Both birds went eastwards, presumably to Rûg near Corwen where there is a heronry. We had it chilly coming home.
April 1893. Sunday the 9th Francie, Milly and I went past Brynmeredeth and over the hill by Fedwfoullan home. A Very nice walk. Saturday the 22nd Frances, Francie and I went after tea to Sarnau bog. It was very fine and we enjoyed the walk. We heard the sedge warbler. Sunday the 23rd We all went in the evening to near the tunneland sat in a field overlooking the bog near the railway. It was very pleasant. Observed a whitethroat. Friday the 28th Frances and I went by the riverside near Tyndol to see a swan sitting and home by roads. Found a tree creepers nest with six eggs. Saturday the 29th Henry and I went as far as Crogen. Found several nests. We thought of meeting Tom coming on his bicycle. Saturday, 6 May. Francis and I took Henry and Millie with us by the 4 o’clock train to Llandrillo we walked back past Llanwercillan and got into the old lane near Llechwercilan where we had a pleasant walk to Tynyfach and Tynycoed. We did not see any interesting bird, but I got a good fossil (Orthoceras vagans) at Tynycoed quarry. We returned by train from Llandrillo. It was a pleasant outing. Observed many black-headed gulls from the train.
Sunday the seventh. Very fine; 12 hours sunshine. I got Henry and Francie to go with me in the evening along the railway and that past Llanerch Sirior, etc. We found a stockdove’s nest and several other nests; the whitethroat, chiffchaff etc. We also found a blackbird’s nest made on the ground in the wood. It was placed on fragments of stone without any protection at the foot of an naked hazel bush and the bird sitting on four eggs.
Whit Sunday. Tom, Francie and I walked to Bala in the evening and came home by the mail train. It was pleasant to walk. Willy went on the hill with the others.
By 1893 Alfred aged 3 was able to walk a fair distance. Tuesday 30th May Francis & I took Alfred with us past Tydninco and round by the riverside home. Alfred to did enjoy his outing and was very amusing. Tydyninco was a small propert owned by Sir H.B. Robertson. Its gardens were looked after by staff originally from Palé, and directed in their work by Thomas.
Sunday the 11th Francie and I went past Brynmelyn into the Meadows and got to the yellow waterlily pool, where the Nuphar advena [yellow pond lilly – ed.] grows. We found the nest of the water hen with 7 eggs, saw the Lily in flower. We came home along the riverside all the way; saw shelves in the river, the limpet and Linnaea. It was a pleasant walk, for it was cool by the river.
Bicycle! While the rest of the family were still on foot, Tom had acquired a fashionable new possession -a bicycle. Perhaps the model was the 1886 Swift Safety Bicycle
Tom arrived by bicycle on Saturday 17th Monday the 19th Tom up, and had breakfast at 3am, and started off by 3.30 it was a beautiful morning, the birds singing and pleasant for travelling; he left in fine spirits.
Tuesday the 20th had a letter from Tom to say he was going through Llandrilloas the church clock struck 4 , and through Corwen as the clock [174] chimed 4.30; and got to Llangollen by .10.30, Ruabon by 6.20, and arrived at Southsea by 7 o’clock. He had a pleasant journey, the air being sweet with the honeysuckle in the hedges in many places. It was rather with warm between Llangollen and Ruabon as there is a stiff pull up their part of the way.
And finally, an expedition for the whole family, at the end of June 1893. Sunday the 25th. After tea, we all went on to the Bala road and along the riverside opposite Palé until we got onto the Bala road again near Pantyffynon. The children did enjoy sitting on a prostrate tree by the river. We picked up the Linnaea I observed in the river at Dolygadfa, also the freshwater limpet and the cockle, (Spaerium lacustre). We saw several of the little bearded fish called the loach in Scotland. [176] It is of the genus Cobites and a few of the fish called miller’s thumb. Alfred had walked all the way there and back. He soon fell asleep when put to bed.
Thomas Ruddy (1842-1912) 